Tuesday, June 4, 2013

CRETE AND SANTORINI ISLANDS IN GREEK AEGEAN SEA



On the morning of 12th May, the ship anchored in the sea near Crete. We were told that it will be difficult to see Crete on our own and hence we joined the trip arranged by the ship. This costs 49 Euros per head. We had an early breakfast and left the ship at 7 am.

CRETE is the largest and most populous of the Greek islands and the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. 
Crete is one of the most popular holiday destinations in Greece. Fifteen percent of all arrivals in Greece come through the city of Heraklion (capital, port, and airport), while charter journeys to Heraklion last year made up 20% of all charter flights in Greece. Overall, more than two million tourists visited Crete last year.
Ancient Palace of Knossos
Mythology has it that it was in a cave of Crete where the goddess Rhea hid the newborn Zeus.  In that cave, Zeus was brought up by the nymphs while the demonical Kouretes would strike their shields loudly so that Cronus may not hear the crying of the baby Zeus and eat it.  It was also to Crete that Zeus, disguised as a bull, took Europa so that they may enjoy their love together.  Their union produced a son, Minos, who ruled Crete and turned it into a mighty island empire of the seas. 
The legend of the labyrinth dates back as far as 2000 BC according to the historical evidence being built on top of a Neolithic settlement populated in 6.000BC. The Palace itself was excavated and reconstructed in 1900.
The Palace of Knossos was undoubtedly the ceremonial and political centre of the Minoan civilization and culture. It appears as a multistoried structure with many floors, innumerable corridors and colonnades, a maze of workrooms, living spaces, and storerooms.
It encompasses an area of 22.000m2, with a population reaching 80.000 people evidenced by the presence of cemeteries nearby.
The water management system of the palace was amazing.
The palace had three separate water-management systems: one for supply, one for drainage of wastewater and one for drainage of runoff.
Aqueducts brought fresh water from springs on hills located about 10 km away. Aqueducts branched to the Palace and to the town. Water was distributed at the Palace by gravity feed through terracotta pipes to fountains and spigots. The pipes were tapered at one end to make a pressure fit, with rope for sealing. No hidden springs have been discovered at Mycenae.
There were series of public toilets in the palace. Sanitation drainage was through a closed system leading to a sewer apart from the hill. The Queen's toilet contained an example of the first water-flushing system toilet adjoining the bathroom. This toilet was a seat over a drain that was flushed by pouring water from a jug.
 The bathtub located in the adjoining bathroom similarly had to be filled by someone heating, carrying, and pouring water and was drained by overturning into a floor drain. This toilet and bathtub were exceptional structures within the 1,300-room complex.
As the hill was periodically drenched by torrential rains, a runoff system was a necessity. It began with channels in the flat surfaces, which were zigzag and contained catchment basins to control the water velocity. Probably the upper system was open. Manholes provided access to parts that were covered.

Apart from the Minoan palace complex, today’s visitor can enjoy the richly decorated internally with mural paintings, public buildings and religious centres A luxury private villa still survives today, colonnaded externally with magnificent mosaic floor tiles dating from the Roman era.

The numerous artifacts of exquisite art have been dug out from the palace, like various pots, vessels, utensils, idols, tablets, and original murals

The throne room is the most interesting area of the complex. The throne is flanked by the Griffin Fresco, with two griffins crouching facing the throne, one on either side. Griffins were important mythological creatures, also appearing on seal rings.

The entire visit to Crete including the Knossos Palace took about 3 hours and we returned to the cruise ship by 11 am.





Storage pots


The Throne room

Ceremonial vessel in the throne room

Griffin


Bull Jumping

The Palace

The cup holders


Drainage system


Prince of Lillies



Dolphin Fresco







The cruise ship then sailed towards Santorini, one of the most fascinating of Greek islands.
We left the ship at 5 pm and took the guided tour of Santorini. The total cost of visiting both
Crete and Santorini is 198 Euros.
There are no archeological sites on Santorini except in Akrotiri, which is the best known Minoan site after Crete. Unfortunately we could not visit the site due to shortage of time.
Santorini looks more or less like our own Mussoori or Shimla with narrow roads, cobbled pathways and steep slopes. Curio shops and cafes line the roads and lanes.
General mode of transport is the QUAD, a four wheel all terrain vehicle, which is driven at high speed all over the island.

SANTORINI.
An alternative name for Santorini is Thira. Santorini is also a name for the family of islands surrounding Thira, once forming a single island prior to a major volcanic event in approximately 1628 B.C.E A giant central, rectangular lagoon, which measures about 12 by 7 km is surrounded by 300 m high steep cliffs on three sides. The main island slopes downward to the Aegean Sea. On the fourth side, the lagoon is separated from the sea by another much smaller island called Therasia; the lagoon is connected to the sea in two places, in the northwest and southwest. The caldera being 400m deep makes it possible for all but the largest ships to anchor anywhere in the protected bay; There is also a newly built marina on the southwestern coast. The principal port is called Athinias. The capital, Fira, clings to the top of the cliff looking down on the lagoon.
Santorini has no rivers, and water is scarce. Until the early 1990s locals filled water cisterns from the rain that fell on roofs and courts, from small springs, and with imported assistance from other areas of Greece. In recent years a desalination plant has provided running, yet non-potable, water to most houses. Since rain is rare on the island from mid-spring till mid-autumn, many plants depend on the scant moisture provided by the common, early morning fog condensing on the ground as dew. There are no large trees on the island.
The island remains the home of a small, but flourishing, wine industry, based on the indigenous grape variety.
Fira is the fiery capital, a marriage of Venetian architecture, whose white cobblestone streets bustle with shops, taverns, hotels and cafes, while clinging to the rim of the caldera nine hundred feet above the its port. If arriving by sea you can take a cable car up from the port or alternatively take a trip on one of the hundreds of mules up the 588 zigzagging steps. You could also attempt to walk up the steps but be warned, they are winding, narrow in parts with only low walls, they are covered in donkey excrement and the donkeys themselves will make no attempt to avoid you.
Walking along a path for about twenty minutes will bring you to the top where you can take in the magnificent view of the island’s unique scenery from the tiny town.
Due to the spectacular and unique natural beauty of Santorini, many Greek singers have chosen the island as the setting of their videos. TV series have been shot in Santorini, as well as some Hollywood movies (e.g. Tomb Raider II). Generally Santorini is a pole of attraction for Greek and international celebrities.
Usually, the meals are served in the Main Dining Room (deck 4)with the choice between a table d'hôte (set menu) or a buffet, or in the closed hall Lido”, on the top deck, for casual meals, as well as in several areas of the ship (such as next to the pool), where barbecues are set up for pizza baking, burgers, hot dogs, pasta etc.
We were told that Michael Jordan’s yacht was anchored in the Marina.
We returned to the cruise ship around 8 pm.

































PATMOS ISLAND, GREEK AEGEAN SEA


Early morning on 11th May 2013, we left Kusadasi, our last halt in Turkey, for the Aegean sea cruise. We had to clear customs and immigration as the ship will be cruising in Greek waters.

We boarded LOIUIS OLYMPIA, the cruise ship around 10 am. The ship has 7 decks. We were allotted a cabin on the 3rd deck, an inner state room, probably the cheapest.  The restaurants are on the 4th floor, conference room etc. on the 5th deck. There were swimming pools, casino, ball room on the 6th deck. There were about 750 passengers and more than that number of crew.
All those who embarked at Kusadasi were given fire and life boat escape drills before the ship set sailed. We left Kusadasi at 12 noon and reached Patmos around 4pm. The ship anchored some distance from the shore. We were transported to the island by tender boats with a capacity of about 100. The cruise ship organizes land trips in Patmos at 48 Euros per head. We wanted to explore on our own.
On landing we were joined by another couple from Chennai and together we hired a cab for 30 Euros for 2 hours, for going around the island of Patmos.

Patmos is a small Greek island in the Aegean Sea.


Patmos is mentioned in the Christian Book of Revelations. The book states that its author, John, was in a cave on Patmos when he was given a vision from Jesus. The cave where John is said to have received his Revelation (the Cave of the Apocalypse) is half way up the hill. This was our first halt. This is a very small cave in which there is now a chapel. The cave is formed in volcanic rock. To the right there is the sacred cave and church of Saint John the Divine. In the centre between the cave and the chapel the low rock ceiling reaches out in clear threefold split, said to be the sign of the Holy Trinity.
At the back of the cave there is a fenced off section where a niche in the rock shows where the saint laid his head to rest. To the left if you look closely you will see a relief of a Greek cross that locals believe was not done by human hands. This is why this place is also called The Jerusalem of the Aegean.

We then proceeded to the top of the hill where there are several monasteries dedicated to Saint John. 


Monastery of John the Baptist.

After the death of John of Patmos, possibly around 100, a number of Early Christian basilicas were erected on Patmos. Among these was a Grand Royal Basilica in honour of Saint John, built c. 300-350 at the location where the Monastery of John the Baptist stands today. Buildings of different ages form the Monastery, comprising 10 chapels and 99 cells as well as a Library of 890 handwritten codes and 13,000 documents about the history of the site.
The monastery’s walls are over 15 meters high, its length from north to south is 53 meters and from east to west 70 meters. It seems even larger when you stand at the entrance, noticing its thick walls and heavily reinforced door.
The monks used to sound the bells to warn the people of Patmos to take refuge behind the fortified walls of the monastery, keeping Christianity safe.
As you enter the courtyard you see a round covered structure looking like a well. However it is learnt that is a wine storage.
Across the main courtyard on the first floor, is the old bakery, where the remains of a huge stone oven can be seen and a long wooden trough where the monks used to kneed their bread. Behind the chapel of The Virgin Mary is the refectory where the monks ate their meals together. It is a rectangular room about 50 square meters and 8 meters high, there are two long tables covered with marble. There are niches in them where monks placed their personal items and beautiful frescos and wall paintings dating back to 1180.
The Blessed Christodoulos also founded the monastery library. When he arrived on the island he brought with him his personal library including manuscripts from the monastic area of Mt. Latmos. The library is now home now to more than 3000 printed books, 900 manuscripts and 13000 documents dating back to 1073.This room is not open to the public except by special permission.
Inside the monastery are the skull of St Thomas, pieces of the Holy Cross and other religious relics.There are excellent wall paintings in this room. No words could sufficiently describe their beauty.
It took us about 2 hours to see the cave and the Monastery. There is an entrance fee of 4 Euros at the cave and 8 Euros at the monastery. We came back to the dock. As usual in any tourist place, along the water front there are a large number of cafes, shops selling curios, clothes etc. We suddenly realized that we were in  not in Turkey but in a different country when we had to pay in Euros and not Liras.
We got into the tender boat and went back to the cruise ship to start for our next destination.






















Sunday, June 2, 2013

KUSADASI AND EPHESUS ANTIQUE CITY,TURKEY


KUSADASI
 It is an Aegean port city with beautiful beaches and water front walkways. There are innumerable cafes and restaurants along water front serving Turkish food specially sea food.
Pigeon Island with a small fortress can be seen from the sea front. Kusadasi is known for the Ephesus Antique city


EPHESUS ANTIQUE CITY.
This is one of the most popular ancient sites of Turkey with many acres of carefully excavated ruins. The temple of Artemis was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world and was the centre of Pagan religion for 15 centuries. The statue of many-breasted Artemis was the symbol of the temple but also of abundance, hunting and wild life and is today exhibited in the Selcuk Museum
Mark Antony and Cleopatra once rode through the streets of this city .St.John who was with Christ at time of his crucifixion, is said to have preached in the Great theater. Virgin Mary was brought here by St. John after the Crucifixion of Jesus and is said to have stayed in a small house outside the city.



Mosaic work on the floor





The Library Building

Statue outside the Library building

House of Virgin Mary

Statue outside the Library building
 S
Statue outside the Library building



Pigeon island,Kusadasi

Ladies beach, Kusadasi

Plaque near Virgin Mary's house

Prayer slips


Theater




Plaque at the entrance to Virgin Mary's house



Thus ends a hectic but enjoyable 8 days in Turkey. We left Kusadasi on a cruise in the Aegean Sea and visited Athens and some glorious islands.

In addition to the discipline and cleanliness I had mentioned earlier one more fact which I observed is that you do not see any police on the streets. In spite of this things move smoothly. People are really courteous and helpful. We really enjoyed our trip to Turkey.
India and Turkey had age old relationships which got affected due the support extended by Gandhiji to Khilafat movement. Gandhiji claimed that his support of the Khilafatists helped ensure Hindu-Muslim unity during the struggle.
With the formation of Pakistan later, unfortunately,Turkey became its active supporter.