TRIP TO LEH, LADAKH, 2ND APRIL TO 7TH APRIL, 2009
LEH the capital of Ladakh region is situated at a altitude of 3505 M and is towards the eastern part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. One has to take an early morning flight from New Delhi which takes about an hour and fifteen minutes. While the temperature in New Delhi around 6am is about 25 deg C it is 4 to 5 degrees C at Leh. So, one has to go prepared to face the low temperature.
Secondly due to the altitude the air is this and requires acclimatization. Travel agents suggest a day of complete rest to get adjusted to the altitude and cold. Otherwise headaches and nausea are common.
King Sengge Namgyal who ruled Ladakh during 17th century and during whose rule Ladakh was at its greatest shifted his court from Shey to Leh.
We stayed at Holiday Ladakh a medium sized hotel which was very comfortable. We were the first visitors of the season when we landed there on 2nd April. The cold and snow were there still while there were no holiday crowds. With our back ground of active life we ignored the advice of others and went for a walk around the town of LEH for a period of 2hrs and 30 mts. We returned tired and with our heads heavy.
The next two days we visited Shey Palace which was the summer palace and monastry of the Royal family in 15th century. We also went to THIKSEY Gompa which is modeled on the Potala palace of Lhasa and then the Hemis Monastry which is the largest and richest in Ladakh. The ALCHI monastry is famous for its 1000 years old great paintings which are inside a dark room and can be seen only with torch lights. Likr Monastry has a great statue of Maitreya Buddha and a huge number of Tankas.( Brass cylinders which have to be rotated clockwise for self purification).
On the way we saw the confluence of two great rivers Sindhu(Indus) and Zanskar. White water rafting in Zanskar is supposed to be the ultimate aim of all rafters in India. Unfortunately, when we visited the river still frozen. We went to another place along the Sindhu where ghats were constructed for bathers during holy days. The water was at freezing temperature, so just sprinkled some water on our heads and left the place.
Just near LEH , there is a palace and a meeting ground where Dalai Lama would stay and deliver sermons during his visits to LEH.
About 25 kms from Leh is what is called the MAGNETIC HILL. On the road a box is marked. If you stop the vehicle in the box and leave it in neutral it will move forward on its own for about 20 M. I wanted to check what happens on the return journey. The vehicle moved up hill the same distance. It is just unbelievable. No one knows why it happens. I do not know whether any scientific study has been undertaken on this. I will have to search the web.
While these visits give you an insight into the Buddhist culture, paintings and life
The most awaited trips were to Khardungla(pass) and lake Pangong.
Khardungla is the heighest motorable road pass in the world at an altitude of 5602 M(18380ft). One can get an exellent view of the Karakoram and Zanskar ranges from here. This is 40 kms from LEH and we expected to reach in 2hrs driving time. Unfortunately there was heavy snowing along the way. We were in two cars ,in one my self and my wife Radhika and in another a young doctor couple from Hubli, Karnataka..We could hardly see the road. We reached a point about 8 kms from Khardungla when those coming from the pass asked us not to proceed further due to heavy snow. We could see snow to a height of 2 m on either side of the road. All mountains were covered with snow and it was great sight. We tried to go a little further and reached an altitude of 4570 M(15500 ft), beyond which it was impossible. We found a little wider stretch there. If we had gone further, we would not have been able to find a stretch to reverse the vehicles if we decide to return. So we got down started playing in the snow. Temperature was around minus 15 deg .C. We mad a stupid looking snow man, threw snow balls at each other for some time and turned back. My finger tips became numb when I was making the snow man even when I was wearing three layers of gloves. I could hardly operate the camera trigger.So the trip ended without us reaching the highest point.
We found herds of YAKS( a kind of cattle) and PASHMINA sheep along the way. The wool from these sheep is used for making Pashmina shawls which cost more than Rs30000 each.
By the way, I have a watch showing temperature, altitude, whether conditions and compass in addition to time. This I have been carrying for my treks in Himalayas earlier.
The next day we planned a trip to PANGONG lake, which is about 150 kms away and a drive of about four and half hours. We left at 6.30 am to avoid the risk of driving late into night in case anything happens. We drove for 80 kms to reach CHANGLA (pass) with an altitude of 5300M (17500ft). This is the third highest pass in the world.
There was snow all round. When we got down from the vehicles to have a cup of tea in a military canteen, we could feel the biting cold in spite of wearing four layers of clothing including thermal wear. Temperature was around minus 20 deg.C .The air was very thin. The ladies started feeling heavy in their heads and nausea. To avoid any one falling sick, we left the place immediately as the drive from there was a descent to 4300M (14000ft) to reach the lake. Through out the drive we found heavy snow all round and slippery roads. However we reached the lake after about 2 hours drive. It was a magnificent view. The lake stretches 140 kms in length and 4 to 10 kms wide. This is the largest lake in the Himalayas.On the other side is TIBET. The lake was completely frozen. It was a sheet of ice and all around were snow peaks. It was a dazzling sight. While every one was enjoying the location and taking photos, we found that suddenly the weather changed. It started becoming foggy. We left the place immediately and drove for about one and half hour. There we found that a military vehicle trying to pass a stationary truck had got onto the berm and standing tilted dangerously towards the gorge. An army recovery vehicle in trying to rescue pushed it further towards the danger side. The three vehicles had blocked our path. The situation appeared hopeless. We cannot proceed further until the vehicles were moved. It was snowing heavily and I did not want to get stuck there. So after lot of examination of the situation, we decided to cut the snow on the hill side to a depth of 1 M width of 2 M and a length of 5 to 6 M to allow our vehicles to pass. We had only one spade. We alternated on the task and completed it in about one and half hour. We were completely exhausted and numb with cold. Some how the drivers veered around the stranded vehicles and we managed to move on. The snow was quite heavy and soft, the vehicles were slipping even after putting on the chains. So the drivers drove cautiously and slowly. Ours was the lead vehicle. We got stuck at two more places when the wheels got bogged down in soft snow. We had to rock the vehicle and some how take it out. The drivers did not like me doing the hard work as they were afraid I will fall sick, due to lack of oxygen and cold. So I had to take the wheel at these points, instead of pushing the vehicle.
After another half an hour we saw a bull dozer of the Border Road Organisation, coming towards us from Changla. They knew there was heavy snowing and had come to clear the roads. The dozer passed us without any problem. But within a few minutes after that our vehicle front right wheel got stuck in a deep rut and could not be taken out with all our efforts. We gave up. It was around 6pm. There was panic. If we do not get out we are likely to be blanketed by snow in the night and there will be no rescue. We all started talking agitatedly on our next course of action. We did not know how far we were from Changla, where we will get some shelter and food. There was desperation. Suddenly one of us noticed that the dozer was still visible when it was going around the corners. We started shouting and waving. Luckily for us the dozer driver noticed us. He was probably 300 to 400 M away. He could not turn the vehicle due to lack of space. He brought the vehicle in reverse all the way. He was shocked to see our condition. He put a tow chain to our vehicle and pulled it out of the rut. There were huge shouts of relief. He stood there and watched till got away. Interestingly we found that Changla was hardly 200 M away. But we had lost sense of time and distance in our panic. Even otherwise no one would have made that trek of 200M in that physical and mental condition. We faced certain death in snow, if the dozer had not come back.
At Changla we had a cup of tea. The military personnel told us that the snowing was not very heavy towards Leh and asked us to leave immediately. We drove cautiously as snow was still there on the roads till we reached 3350 M(11000ft).
We reached the hotel around 9pm, after about 15 hours. All at the hotel were anxious about us and were relieved to see us safe. It was an unforgettable situation that we faced on this trip.
While all these problems were being faced no one realized that we had not eaten or drank anything for hours. We were so hungry that we gorged on the food given at the hotel and went to sleep. We had to catch a flight to Delhi at 8 am next morning.
Best time to visit.
If you are interested in looking at lot of snow, want to see frozen rivers Sindhu and Zanskar, and Pangong lake and enjoy the adventure of travelling up to the Khardungla at 18000 ft altitude in minus 20 deg. C temperatures, your best time to visit is early April. But you must be prepared with sufficient warm clothing to protect yourself (thermals, three layers over it, gloves, monkey cap, ear muffs, woolen socks and good walking shoes) also be able to survive at the rarified atmosphere. Probably it is wise to carry a portable oxygen cylinder. Most of the shops are closed during this period, that means less crowds. You can enjoy the place peacefully.
If you want only to see the snow covered peaks and the monastries and probably try the white water rafting in the Zanskar late April and early May will be ideal when the temperatures will be bearable. Spring would have set in and everything around will be green. Shops selling woolen clothes and local trinkets will also be open. Be prepared of jostling crowds.
Manohar.R 14th April, 2009
LEH the capital of Ladakh region is situated at a altitude of 3505 M and is towards the eastern part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. One has to take an early morning flight from New Delhi which takes about an hour and fifteen minutes. While the temperature in New Delhi around 6am is about 25 deg C it is 4 to 5 degrees C at Leh. So, one has to go prepared to face the low temperature.
Secondly due to the altitude the air is this and requires acclimatization. Travel agents suggest a day of complete rest to get adjusted to the altitude and cold. Otherwise headaches and nausea are common.
King Sengge Namgyal who ruled Ladakh during 17th century and during whose rule Ladakh was at its greatest shifted his court from Shey to Leh.
We stayed at Holiday Ladakh a medium sized hotel which was very comfortable. We were the first visitors of the season when we landed there on 2nd April. The cold and snow were there still while there were no holiday crowds. With our back ground of active life we ignored the advice of others and went for a walk around the town of LEH for a period of 2hrs and 30 mts. We returned tired and with our heads heavy.
The next two days we visited Shey Palace which was the summer palace and monastry of the Royal family in 15th century. We also went to THIKSEY Gompa which is modeled on the Potala palace of Lhasa and then the Hemis Monastry which is the largest and richest in Ladakh. The ALCHI monastry is famous for its 1000 years old great paintings which are inside a dark room and can be seen only with torch lights. Likr Monastry has a great statue of Maitreya Buddha and a huge number of Tankas.( Brass cylinders which have to be rotated clockwise for self purification).
On the way we saw the confluence of two great rivers Sindhu(Indus) and Zanskar. White water rafting in Zanskar is supposed to be the ultimate aim of all rafters in India. Unfortunately, when we visited the river still frozen. We went to another place along the Sindhu where ghats were constructed for bathers during holy days. The water was at freezing temperature, so just sprinkled some water on our heads and left the place.
Just near LEH , there is a palace and a meeting ground where Dalai Lama would stay and deliver sermons during his visits to LEH.
About 25 kms from Leh is what is called the MAGNETIC HILL. On the road a box is marked. If you stop the vehicle in the box and leave it in neutral it will move forward on its own for about 20 M. I wanted to check what happens on the return journey. The vehicle moved up hill the same distance. It is just unbelievable. No one knows why it happens. I do not know whether any scientific study has been undertaken on this. I will have to search the web.
While these visits give you an insight into the Buddhist culture, paintings and life
The most awaited trips were to Khardungla(pass) and lake Pangong.
Khardungla is the heighest motorable road pass in the world at an altitude of 5602 M(18380ft). One can get an exellent view of the Karakoram and Zanskar ranges from here. This is 40 kms from LEH and we expected to reach in 2hrs driving time. Unfortunately there was heavy snowing along the way. We were in two cars ,in one my self and my wife Radhika and in another a young doctor couple from Hubli, Karnataka..We could hardly see the road. We reached a point about 8 kms from Khardungla when those coming from the pass asked us not to proceed further due to heavy snow. We could see snow to a height of 2 m on either side of the road. All mountains were covered with snow and it was great sight. We tried to go a little further and reached an altitude of 4570 M(15500 ft), beyond which it was impossible. We found a little wider stretch there. If we had gone further, we would not have been able to find a stretch to reverse the vehicles if we decide to return. So we got down started playing in the snow. Temperature was around minus 15 deg .C. We mad a stupid looking snow man, threw snow balls at each other for some time and turned back. My finger tips became numb when I was making the snow man even when I was wearing three layers of gloves. I could hardly operate the camera trigger.So the trip ended without us reaching the highest point.
We found herds of YAKS( a kind of cattle) and PASHMINA sheep along the way. The wool from these sheep is used for making Pashmina shawls which cost more than Rs30000 each.
By the way, I have a watch showing temperature, altitude, whether conditions and compass in addition to time. This I have been carrying for my treks in Himalayas earlier.
The next day we planned a trip to PANGONG lake, which is about 150 kms away and a drive of about four and half hours. We left at 6.30 am to avoid the risk of driving late into night in case anything happens. We drove for 80 kms to reach CHANGLA (pass) with an altitude of 5300M (17500ft). This is the third highest pass in the world.
There was snow all round. When we got down from the vehicles to have a cup of tea in a military canteen, we could feel the biting cold in spite of wearing four layers of clothing including thermal wear. Temperature was around minus 20 deg.C .The air was very thin. The ladies started feeling heavy in their heads and nausea. To avoid any one falling sick, we left the place immediately as the drive from there was a descent to 4300M (14000ft) to reach the lake. Through out the drive we found heavy snow all round and slippery roads. However we reached the lake after about 2 hours drive. It was a magnificent view. The lake stretches 140 kms in length and 4 to 10 kms wide. This is the largest lake in the Himalayas.On the other side is TIBET. The lake was completely frozen. It was a sheet of ice and all around were snow peaks. It was a dazzling sight. While every one was enjoying the location and taking photos, we found that suddenly the weather changed. It started becoming foggy. We left the place immediately and drove for about one and half hour. There we found that a military vehicle trying to pass a stationary truck had got onto the berm and standing tilted dangerously towards the gorge. An army recovery vehicle in trying to rescue pushed it further towards the danger side. The three vehicles had blocked our path. The situation appeared hopeless. We cannot proceed further until the vehicles were moved. It was snowing heavily and I did not want to get stuck there. So after lot of examination of the situation, we decided to cut the snow on the hill side to a depth of 1 M width of 2 M and a length of 5 to 6 M to allow our vehicles to pass. We had only one spade. We alternated on the task and completed it in about one and half hour. We were completely exhausted and numb with cold. Some how the drivers veered around the stranded vehicles and we managed to move on. The snow was quite heavy and soft, the vehicles were slipping even after putting on the chains. So the drivers drove cautiously and slowly. Ours was the lead vehicle. We got stuck at two more places when the wheels got bogged down in soft snow. We had to rock the vehicle and some how take it out. The drivers did not like me doing the hard work as they were afraid I will fall sick, due to lack of oxygen and cold. So I had to take the wheel at these points, instead of pushing the vehicle.
After another half an hour we saw a bull dozer of the Border Road Organisation, coming towards us from Changla. They knew there was heavy snowing and had come to clear the roads. The dozer passed us without any problem. But within a few minutes after that our vehicle front right wheel got stuck in a deep rut and could not be taken out with all our efforts. We gave up. It was around 6pm. There was panic. If we do not get out we are likely to be blanketed by snow in the night and there will be no rescue. We all started talking agitatedly on our next course of action. We did not know how far we were from Changla, where we will get some shelter and food. There was desperation. Suddenly one of us noticed that the dozer was still visible when it was going around the corners. We started shouting and waving. Luckily for us the dozer driver noticed us. He was probably 300 to 400 M away. He could not turn the vehicle due to lack of space. He brought the vehicle in reverse all the way. He was shocked to see our condition. He put a tow chain to our vehicle and pulled it out of the rut. There were huge shouts of relief. He stood there and watched till got away. Interestingly we found that Changla was hardly 200 M away. But we had lost sense of time and distance in our panic. Even otherwise no one would have made that trek of 200M in that physical and mental condition. We faced certain death in snow, if the dozer had not come back.
At Changla we had a cup of tea. The military personnel told us that the snowing was not very heavy towards Leh and asked us to leave immediately. We drove cautiously as snow was still there on the roads till we reached 3350 M(11000ft).
We reached the hotel around 9pm, after about 15 hours. All at the hotel were anxious about us and were relieved to see us safe. It was an unforgettable situation that we faced on this trip.
While all these problems were being faced no one realized that we had not eaten or drank anything for hours. We were so hungry that we gorged on the food given at the hotel and went to sleep. We had to catch a flight to Delhi at 8 am next morning.
Best time to visit.
If you are interested in looking at lot of snow, want to see frozen rivers Sindhu and Zanskar, and Pangong lake and enjoy the adventure of travelling up to the Khardungla at 18000 ft altitude in minus 20 deg. C temperatures, your best time to visit is early April. But you must be prepared with sufficient warm clothing to protect yourself (thermals, three layers over it, gloves, monkey cap, ear muffs, woolen socks and good walking shoes) also be able to survive at the rarified atmosphere. Probably it is wise to carry a portable oxygen cylinder. Most of the shops are closed during this period, that means less crowds. You can enjoy the place peacefully.
If you want only to see the snow covered peaks and the monastries and probably try the white water rafting in the Zanskar late April and early May will be ideal when the temperatures will be bearable. Spring would have set in and everything around will be green. Shops selling woolen clothes and local trinkets will also be open. Be prepared of jostling crowds.
Manohar.R 14th April, 2009
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