JORDAN - PART I

HISTORY OF JORDAN

AMMAN

Amman has served as the modern and ancient capital of Jordan. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a 1994 excavation uncovering homes and towers believed to have been built during the Stone Age, circa 7000 BC. There are many Biblical references to the city, which by about 1200 BC had become the Ammonite capital of Rabbath-Ammon. The Ammonites fought numerous wars with Saul, David and others.
The history of Amman between the end of its Biblical references (around 585 BC) and the time of the Ptolemies is unclear. The city was renamed Philadelphia after the Ptolemaic ruler Philadelphus in the third century BC. After coming under Seleucid and Nabatean rule, Philadelphia was taken by the Roman King Herod in 30 BC. Under Roman rule, Philadelphia was re planned and reconstructed in typically grand Roman style with a colonnaded street, baths, an amphitheater and impressive public buildings.
Amman’s modern history began in the late 19th century, when the Ottomans resettled a colony of Circassian emigrants there in 1878. Many of their descendants still reside in Amman. However, after the Great Arab Revolt secured the state of Transjordan, Emir Abdullah bin al-Hussein made Amman his capital in 1921.

Jerash

Jerash, located 48 kilometers north of Amman is considered one of the largest and most well-preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world outside Italy. To this day, its colonnaded streets, baths, theaters, plazas and arches remain in exceptional condition. Within the remaining city walls, archaeologists have found the ruins of settlements dating back to the Neolithic Age, indicating human occupation at this location for more than 6500 years.
The ancient city was buried in sand, which accounts for its remarkable preservation. It has been gradually revealed through a series of excavations which commenced in 1925, and continue to this day.

Ajloun

The road to Ajloun, located 25 kilometers west of Jerash and 73 kilometers from Amman, winds through fertile green hillsides lined with olive groves. The main attraction in Ajloun is the stronghold of Qala’at al-Rabadh, a fine example of medieval Arab/Islamic military architecture. The castle was built between1184-85 BC by the nephew of Salah Eddin al-Ayyubi (known in the West as Saladin), the great Muslim commander who waged a successful campaign to recover lands lost to the invading Crusaders.
Ajloun’s strategic position commanding the Jordan Valley, as well as the three small valleys leading to it, made it an important link in the defensive chain against the Crusaders, who spent decades unsuccessfully trying to capture the castle and nearby village. The fortress is built upon the apex of the hill above Ajloun, and offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside. On a clear day you can see the Dead Sea, the Jordan Valley, the West Bank, and Lake Tiberias (the Sea of Galilee).

The King’s Highway

There are two routes connecting Amman with the south of Jordan: the Desert Highway and the King’s Highway.
The King’s Highway is the world’s oldest continuously used communication route, and is mentioned early in the Bible. In Number 20, Moses requests the king of Edom to allow his people to "travel along the King’s Highway and not turn to the right or to the left until we have passed through your territory."

Madaba

The town of Madaba, located 30 kilometers southwest of Amman, is most famous for its exquisite 6th-century mosaics. Its history dates back at least 3500 years. Madaba, which was known in the Bible as the Moabite town of Medaba, is mentioned in the Old Testament account of Moses and the Exodus (Numbers 21: 30).
Madaba’s most famous mosaic is located in the Church of St. George in the middle of town. The Mosaic Map of Palestine represents the Holy Land and its surrounding regions. Clearly visible on the map are al-Quds (Jerusalem) and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Dead Sea, the Jordan River, Nablus, al-Khalil (Hebron), Ariha (Jericho), Egypt and the Nile River, Turkey and Lebanon. The mosaic was made around 560 BC, originally composed of over 2.3 million pieces, and measured a staggering 25 by 5 meters. It is estimated that 11,500 man-hours would have been required to lay the entire mosaic.

At the southern entrance to Madaba, near the King’s Highway, is the Church of the Apostles. The ruins of this Byzantine church date to 578 BC, and are currently being restored. One of Madaba’s most beautiful mosaics adorns the floor of this church. The mosaic is known as "Personification of the Sea" and it vividly depicts a woman emerging from the sea, surrounded by mythical aquatic creatures and a hodgepodge of rams, bulls, parrots and exotic vegetation. The mosaic was signed by a mosaicist named Salamanios.

Mount Nebo

Less than 10 kilometers west of Madaba is Mount Nebo, known as Pisgah in the Bible. It is where the Bible says Moses lived out his remaining days and viewed the Promised Land which he would never enter (Deuteronomy 34: 1-8). Mt. Nebo offers a fantastic view westward, with a vista that includes the Dead Sea, the West Bank, the Jordan River and, on a clear day, Bethlehem and Jerusalem.
The main mosaic, which measures three by nine meters, depicts the monastic pastime of wine-making, as well as hunters and an assortment of animals. Outside the building is an enigmatic Serpentine Cross. The figure represents the bronze serpent taken up by Moses in the desert, as well as the cross upon which Jesus was crucified. It is also said that the three wise men on their way to visit the new born JESUS took their last rest in Mount Nebo.

The Dead Sea

The Dead Sea is 75 kilometers long and from 6 to 16 kilometers wide. It is fed by the Jordan River, but it has no outlet. As its name suggests, the Dead Sea is entirely devoid of plant and animal life. This is due to an extremely high content of salt and other minerals—350 grams of salt per kilogram of water, as compared to about 40 grams in the world’s oceans. This concentration is caused by a rapid rate of evaporation. These natural elements give the waters of the Dead Sea certain curative properties, recognized since the days of Herod the Great over 2000 years ago.
The Dead Sea is also famous geographically as "the lowest point on earth," lying some 400 meters below sea level.
Visitors to the Dead Sea come away with an unforgettable swimming experience, as the high density of the water makes sinking virtually impossible. Indeed, swimming is also difficult, as one is lifted too high in the water to be able to stroke properly. More appropriate is the often-photographed pose showing a visitor reclining in the water, leisurely reading a perfectly dry newspaper.

OUR TOUR OF JORDAN 19TH AND 21ST APRIL, 2008

My self, my wife Radhika, a friend Mr. Murali Mohan and his wife Jayashree were part of the group who took this tour to Jordan organized by M/s SOTC.
We landed in Amman by Royal Jordan Airways on 19thpril 2008. We moved to the hotel. After freshening up we hired a taxi and left for JERASH. On the way we had early lunch at an Indian restaurant called Kashmere. Jerash is 48 Kms away. On arrival we purchased tickets to visit the ruins as well as to attend a show.
The show was held in a structure resembling the Roman Coliseum. Men dressed as Roman gladiators performed various marshal arts and formations( like Vyoohas mentioned in Mahabharat). The formations show how to counter an attack by foot soldiers, cavalry and archers. There was also a show with horse drawn carts similar to those shown in old movies like BENHUR.
It was a nice show with accompanying commentary explaining every move.
We then went around the ruins. It mainly consists of the Roman style coliseum, a columnade and a fort.

We then left for AJLUN, a fort about 25 Kms away. There is a long flight of steps to the top of the fort. From the top you get a good view of the Jordan valley, Dead Sea and Lake Tiberias. The fort overlooks three routes into Jordan and was effective in preventing any surprise attacks. The fort is completely in ruins. Except for the view from the top there is nothing much to see.
At Ajlun it was interesting to see, tea being kept in very large conical aluminium vessels on coal and served really hot.

We then returned to the hotel in Amman.

Next day we went in an organized tour to PETRA recognised as a UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE, about which I will write separately.

On the third day, we left in the same taxi for MADABA, about 30 Kms away towards South. Inside a church in Madaba, there is a large mosaic map of Palastine (the holy land) as envisaged those days made of nearly 2.3 million coloured pieces. It is an awesome work. It is so large I could not cover it in one shot. So I had to take photographs part by part.

We then left for Mount Nebo about 10kms away. This is the place where Moses lived his last days and the three wise men rested on their way to visit the infant Jesus. It also has a large number of mosaics inside a building. Outside the building is a cross with a serpent around it. This represents the staff taken by Moses as well as the cross on which Christ was crucified. The main mosaic is too large to be photographed entirely in one shot.

From here we left for Dead Sea. A resort has been constructed on the banks of the Dead Sea, with showers, swimming pools, changing area etc. They charge a fee for entry. It is safer to use this place rather than enter the sea at unknown place. As you enter the water you can feel the buoyancy, it lifts you from the bed. It is impossible to sink or swim as you float practically at the surface of water. You can comfortably lie down flat on your back in the water and read a book or newspaper. The problem is in getting up. It is very difficult to press your feet down to the bed to lift yourself up. You need some ones help to get up. I found a solution. I floated along till I reached a very shallow point where it is relatively easier to lower the legs, and get up. Those who do not know swimming are initially scared but once they start floating they enjoy the unforgettable experience.
You will find lot of visitors applying the blackish mud all over the body and keep it for a while before washing it off. There is a belief in its curative value as it is full of many elements. One has to be careful incase there is any cut or rash on the skin, as the water will sting like acid. One has also to avoid water getting into the mouth. I tasted and found it unbearably salty. We were told that the density and brackishness are slowly increasing as the inflow of water from Jordan River has decreased substantially.

You have to scrub and wash the body really thoroughly to take off the salt. Some of us swam in the pools for a while and then left the place. We returned to Amman in time for a late lunch in Kashmere and retired for the day.