After our visit to Denmark, we took an overnight cruise from Copenhagen to Oslo in Norway. (JUNE 2010)
From Oslo we had a bus journey to Bergen on the West coast of Norway through beautiful country side full of green hills and waterfalls. At Bergen a funicular train takes us to the top of a hill from where we get a panoramic view of the city.
From Bergen we took a bus to Gudvangen and from there by cruiser to Flam. The cruise is in the FJORDS of Norway. Fjords are back waters. Unlike the back waters in Kerala these are very wide. There are a quite a large number of small and big islands. There are small jetties for boats and beautiful buildings in these islands. During the cruise sea gulls come to feed on bread crumbs and fruits from passengers hands.
Flam is known for its mountain railway, Flambano, one of the steepest in the world and for its numerous tunnels, probably the only one with a 180 degree curve inside a tunnel. The gradient is 55/1000, almost 1 in 18 along 80% of the length. The railway is 20 kms long and has 6 tunnels. The journey takes about an hour. It is a great engineering marvel.It raises from Flam valley to Myrdal 1320 M high. The train has a photo stop on the way at Kjosfossen, a magnificient waterfall. Probably this is the only place in the world where a train stops and waits while passengers get down to take photographs. After an hour’s thrilling train journey we reach Myrdal from where we took another train to Geilo.
Geilo is a sleepy little village where we took a halt after all the excitement before boarding the bus next day for Karlstad in Sweden. The bus journey from Geilo to Karlstad is absolutely scary as the bus climbs down the Myrdalsberget mountain on which there are 21 hair pin bends continuously. It is really wonderful to see the control exercised by the driver when he manoeuvres the bus on these bends. A river is seen down below like a silver ribbon.
I have attached a separate write up about Flam railway and photos of this journey. Hope you enjoy reading and looking at them.
FLÅM RAILWAY – NORWAY
ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RAILWAY LINES IN THE WORLD
It is an incredible 20 kilometer long train journey from the mountain station at Myrdal on the Bergen Railway, down to Flåm station nestled in the innermost corner of the Aurlandfjord.
The Flåm Railway, which passes through the beautiful, narrow Flåm valley, is regarded as a masterpiece of Norwegian engineering. The Flåm Railway is one of the world’s steepest railway lines on normal gauge. The gradient is 55/1000 on almost 80% of the line, i.e. a gradient of one in eighteen. Part of the track is so steep that the train will use 5 different braking systems. The twisting tunnels that spiral in and out of the mountain are manifestations of the most daring and skilful engineering in Norwegian railway history. Work was begun on the Flåm Railway in 1923. It took 20 years to complete. The Flåm Railway was opened temporarily for steam engines on 1 August 1940
The train leaves the green fields and orchards of the valley floor before continuing alongside the river and through tunnels. As the train exits Nåli, the Flåm Railway's longest tunnel (1320 metres), you will catch a glimpse of the most spectacular and interesting view on the railway's ascent to Myrdal - the railway track on four different levels in the mountain side and a part of Myrdal station. At the same time, you will see the old road winding its way via 21 hairpin bends up the steep Myrdalsberget mountain. The steep mountainsides were a major challenge, the solution being to build hairpin tunnels in order to equalise the big differences in altitude on the steep mountain. The train passes through a hairpin tunnel that turns 180°, an opening in the tunnel affording a panoramic view of the wild landscape. Several hundred metres straight down from the carriage window the river resembles a silver ribbon lying on the valley floor, while you see the steep mountainside with the rail track cut into a narrow ledge.
The Flåm Railway crosses the valley and river three times, but there are no bridges over the river. Instead of bridges, the river is led through the mountain in tunnels underneath the railway line.
The most time-consuming work was on the tunnels. These were excavated manually. Only two of the twenty tunnels, which have a total length of 6 km, were excavated using machines. Every metre of tunnel cost the labour force, the navvies, up to a month's hard work. The labour force, 120 strong at the outset, rapidly increased to 220 at the peak.
The train has a photo stop at Kjosfossen. There is no other place on earth where rail travellers can get down from the train and have the chance to see such an impressive waterfall as from the platform at Kjosfossen, while the train waits for them. High up on the horizon you see the white water cascading off the steep mountain side. The rushing river of water dissolves into foam with a thunderous roar as it hits the mountain on its way down. According to a Norwegian legend, a temptress lives behind these falls and tries to lure men to the rocks by her singing. The train passes Reinungvatnet, a truly beautiful mountain lake before you get your last magnificent view of the mountains and moorland at Vatnahalsen. An unforgettable train journey comes to an end at Myrdal.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Sunday, July 25, 2010
VIGELAND SCULPTURE PARK OSLO, NORWAY
Our visit to Norway on 1st June 2010
THE VIGELAND PARK, OSLO,NORWAY
The Vigeland Park in Norway is the largest sculpture park made by one single artist in the world. The unique sculpture park is Gustav Vigeland's lifework with more than 200 sculptures in bronze, granite and wrought iron and was mainly completed between 1939 and 1949. Clay was Vigeland’s chosen material. In soft clay he could work quickly. He would free-hand model the full-scale sculptures based on small three-dimensional sketches. He occasionally used a grid to guide him. Then professional craftsmen did the carving in granite and casting in bronze.
Most of the sculptures are placed in five units along an 850 meter long axis: The Main gate, the Bridge with the Children's playground, the Fountain, the Monolith plateau and the Wheel of Life.
1.THE MAIN GATE
The Main Gate in granite and wrought iron marks the beginning of the long axis. The Main Gate consists of five large gates and two small pedestrian gates in wrought iron. Railings curve outwards on each side and end in two copper-roofed gate houses, topped by guilded weather vanes.
2.THE BRIDGE
The 100 m long and 15 m wide bridge, lined with lanterns and sculptures on the granite parapets, is built on top of an old bridge. There are 58 sculptures in bronze. These include a rich variety of children, women and men in different ages, some alone, others in groups. Dominant motifs are the relationships between man and woman, adults and children. Stationary figures that flank the cube formed lanterns alternate with dynamic groups. By the run of the waterfall the bridge widens to each side and is marked with figures surrounded by massive bronze wheels. Here you will also find Sinnataggen, the little Angry Boy.In spite of his size, the little angry boy is one of the most popular figures in the park.
There are four tall granite columns portraying humans fighting lizards. These show demons in absolute control of their victims.
Below the bridge is a circular playground with eight bronze sculptures of small children. In the centre, mounted on a small granite column, is the figure of an unborn child.
3.THE FOUNTAIN
In the Fountain, the principal theme is the cycle of life, in which Man is depicted in a variety of typical human situations and relationships.
The fountain is surrounded by 20 tree groups. Beneath the crown of the trees the life of man, from cradle to grave, unfolds. After the tree group, the skeleton which is about to decay in nature, and a tree full of children follows.On the outer circle around tthe pool,there are about 60 bronze reliefs.
3. THE MONOLITH
On the highest point of the park, on the Monolith Plateau, rise circular stairs towards the Monolith. The Monolith with 121 figures is 14.12 m and the total height, including the plinth, is 17.3 m high. The Monolith was carved from one single granite block, hence the name (mono: one, litho: stone).
Vigeland modelled it in full size in clay . It only took him ten months. Thereafter it was cast in plaster. The autumn of 1926 a granite block weighing hundreds of tons was transported by sea up the Oslofjord from a stone quarry near Halden. The block arrived its destination in the early 1927 and was erected the following year. It took three stone carvers 14 years to finish the work.
Monolith is supposed to represent man's longing and yearning for the spiritual and divine. People are drawn towards heaven, not only characterised by sadness and controlled despair, but also delight and hope, next to a feeling of togetherness, carefully holding one another tight in this strange sense of salvation.
There are sculptures of 36 figure groups on the Monolith Plateau.
4. THE WHEEL OF LIFE
The Wheel of Life was modelled in clay and then a master copy was cast in plaster. Then smiths made an iron armature in full scale of three metres in diameter. The large bronze "Wheel of Life," is composed of figures swirling in an eternal circle.
THE VIGELAND PARK, OSLO,NORWAY
The Vigeland Park in Norway is the largest sculpture park made by one single artist in the world. The unique sculpture park is Gustav Vigeland's lifework with more than 200 sculptures in bronze, granite and wrought iron and was mainly completed between 1939 and 1949. Clay was Vigeland’s chosen material. In soft clay he could work quickly. He would free-hand model the full-scale sculptures based on small three-dimensional sketches. He occasionally used a grid to guide him. Then professional craftsmen did the carving in granite and casting in bronze.
Most of the sculptures are placed in five units along an 850 meter long axis: The Main gate, the Bridge with the Children's playground, the Fountain, the Monolith plateau and the Wheel of Life.
1.THE MAIN GATE
The Main Gate in granite and wrought iron marks the beginning of the long axis. The Main Gate consists of five large gates and two small pedestrian gates in wrought iron. Railings curve outwards on each side and end in two copper-roofed gate houses, topped by guilded weather vanes.
2.THE BRIDGE
The 100 m long and 15 m wide bridge, lined with lanterns and sculptures on the granite parapets, is built on top of an old bridge. There are 58 sculptures in bronze. These include a rich variety of children, women and men in different ages, some alone, others in groups. Dominant motifs are the relationships between man and woman, adults and children. Stationary figures that flank the cube formed lanterns alternate with dynamic groups. By the run of the waterfall the bridge widens to each side and is marked with figures surrounded by massive bronze wheels. Here you will also find Sinnataggen, the little Angry Boy.In spite of his size, the little angry boy is one of the most popular figures in the park.
There are four tall granite columns portraying humans fighting lizards. These show demons in absolute control of their victims.
Below the bridge is a circular playground with eight bronze sculptures of small children. In the centre, mounted on a small granite column, is the figure of an unborn child.
3.THE FOUNTAIN
In the Fountain, the principal theme is the cycle of life, in which Man is depicted in a variety of typical human situations and relationships.
The fountain is surrounded by 20 tree groups. Beneath the crown of the trees the life of man, from cradle to grave, unfolds. After the tree group, the skeleton which is about to decay in nature, and a tree full of children follows.On the outer circle around tthe pool,there are about 60 bronze reliefs.
3. THE MONOLITH
On the highest point of the park, on the Monolith Plateau, rise circular stairs towards the Monolith. The Monolith with 121 figures is 14.12 m and the total height, including the plinth, is 17.3 m high. The Monolith was carved from one single granite block, hence the name (mono: one, litho: stone).
Vigeland modelled it in full size in clay . It only took him ten months. Thereafter it was cast in plaster. The autumn of 1926 a granite block weighing hundreds of tons was transported by sea up the Oslofjord from a stone quarry near Halden. The block arrived its destination in the early 1927 and was erected the following year. It took three stone carvers 14 years to finish the work.
Monolith is supposed to represent man's longing and yearning for the spiritual and divine. People are drawn towards heaven, not only characterised by sadness and controlled despair, but also delight and hope, next to a feeling of togetherness, carefully holding one another tight in this strange sense of salvation.
There are sculptures of 36 figure groups on the Monolith Plateau.
4. THE WHEEL OF LIFE
The Wheel of Life was modelled in clay and then a master copy was cast in plaster. Then smiths made an iron armature in full scale of three metres in diameter. The large bronze "Wheel of Life," is composed of figures swirling in an eternal circle.
Saturday, January 9, 2010
BHANDARADARA AND TREK TO KALSUBAI PEAK
TRIP TO BHANDARADARA AND TREK TO KALSUBAI PEAK
On 31st December 2009, Ravi left Mumbai with Pritti and Rhea for Pune, where he wanted to celebrate New Year eve with his friends. I and Radhika decided to avoid the New Year eve rush and left Mumbai at 08.30 am on 1st January 2010, for Bhandaradara.
Bhandardara is a village on the western coast of India in Ahmednagar District of Maharashtra, about 185 kilometers from Mumbai. We took the Mumbai–Nasik highway and went up to Ghoti Village which is 9 kms after Igatpuri. Here we took a right turn on to the Shirdi by- pass road. This road goes to Rajur and then joins Pune-Nasik road at Sangamner. About 35 kms from Ghoti, turn right and travel about 5 kms to reach Bhandaradara on a narrow road. It takes about 4 hrs to cover this whole distance. We reached around 12.30pm.
Ravi and family left Pune on the 1st afternoon and joined us at Bhandaradara around 6pm.
Bhandaradara is nestled in the Sahyadri Range and offers pristine beauty and serenity. This is still not a much explored area and hence peaceful with no commercialization. There are only two resorts in the area offering good accommodation and food. During the day it was very pleasant and evenings were slightly cool. The resort had arranged wonderful tribal dance shows in the evenings.
I checked up with the resort reception and came to know that Kalsubai peak can be approached from a village 8 kms away from the resort and the trek will take about 6 hours. I had not actually planned to take this trek when we left Mumbai. But once in Bhandaradara, I decided to take up the challenge.
Next morning at 8.30 am, I put on a light jacket, cap, took an apple, an orange and a bottle of water in a small back pack and told my wife I am going to Kalsubai peak. I took the car and drove to Village Bari. From here the peak is about 5 kms. I parked the car and talked to the villagers for a guide. A tribal young man offered to guide me to the peak. We started at 9 am. Initially it was more or less level ground. We walked through couple of villages on bunds separating paddy fields for about 2 kms and reached a temple of Hanuman and another deity. From there it was a gentle slope for another kilometer or so. There was some vegetation, mostly bush, all round. Very few trees were present. The track was dusty with some pebbles and boulders. I had some problem walking as I was not wearing proper trekking shoes.
There is a well at half the climb, which had cool, clean water. I am told that the water level in the well does not drop even in summer.
Suddenly the track became quite steep, some times even up to 45 deg. In some places to cross ravines or where the slope is very steep, iron ladders with railings have been provided. These have pipe rungs at about 30 cms spacing. If you miss a step you will be in the ravine. Some such ladders have more than 75 steps and you cannot stop in the middle as it will obstruct those going up or down. You have to keep pegging along. It was very tiring. The guide kept goading me on and with frequent rests I made it to a plateau right at the top. Suddenly you find a huge rock formation about 50M high in front of you, which is the peak. Kalsubai temple is on the peak. I had to again take the iron ladder which is almost vertical, to climb up to the peak. And then there I was at the peak Kalsubai. It was 12 noon. My guide told me that I had made the climb faster than an average person. The peak is a flat ground of about 30M X 15M with the temple at the center.
At 1,646 mts, Mount Kalsubai is the highest peak in Sahyadri range of hills and is a favourite of trekkers. The trek is however strenuous and requires quite an amount of stamina.
I met a group of young men at the peak, who had come on motor cycles from Mumbai. They brought camping tents with them and had decided to stay at the plateau for the night to watch the sunset and the sunrise. The air was cool. There was thick fog all round and visibility was poor. Through the haze we could see the Sahyadri Range, some other peaks,(Along, Malang, Kulang and Mahuli), the Bhandaradara dam and the lake. The guide pointed out a spot where JATAYU’s wing is supposed to have fallen when he fought with Ravana who was taking away Sita. A small temple for Rama is built at the spot.
I ate the fruits, drank some water and started the descent at 12.30 pm. The descent was also not easy especially on the iron ladders, as you have to climb down backwards. The dust and small gravel on the ground made it slippery. We had made it almost 85% when we had to go down a steep slope. I did not get a proper foot hold, slipped and fell on my back. Luckily no serious injury except some bruises on elbows and palms. After a little rest we reached the village by 2pm.
Unfortunately. I found that one of the tyres of my car had gone flat. The village is so small, that no one knew to change the tyres. I was too tired to do anything. I just sat on a rock wondering what to do. Then a young boy of around 15 years approached me and said that if I could guide him he will try to remove the flat tyre and fix the new one. It took him half an hour to do the job while I went on telling him how to do it. I was happy the job was done and he was happy that he learnt some thing new. I gave him some money and left the place and reached the resort by 3pm.
No communication with outside world was possible on the trek as hills all round block signals. Surprisingly when my son called me I was right on the peak and I could talk to him. After that there was no communication for nearly three hours and my family were bit worried, specially my grand daughter Rhea. As soon as I reached the resort, she ran to me and shouted at me “why did you go on such a trip alone?” I stood still for a moment and to lighten the situation, just turned around and showed my back which was covered with red earth from the fall. She had a hearty laugh. She asked me about injuries and when told that there was nothing serious she was relieved.
I had some thing to eat and took rest for some time. In the evening my son took us around in the car to see the dam and the lake. On the way we saw some fields where traditional ploughing was in progress. I got down and took Rhea around and showed her the plough, the bulls, furrows, sowing of seeds, watering the fields and explained how it is all done. She was also thrilled to see a huge well, fields of cabbage (each one weighing some 3kgs), tomatoes and brinjal. Where does a child get to see such things in a city like Mumbai?
Back at the resort, we had a glorious time together. We played table tennis, badminton, cards. Rhea took a cycle and had some fun.
We left Bhandaradara next morning for Mumbai. Back to routine.
On 31st December 2009, Ravi left Mumbai with Pritti and Rhea for Pune, where he wanted to celebrate New Year eve with his friends. I and Radhika decided to avoid the New Year eve rush and left Mumbai at 08.30 am on 1st January 2010, for Bhandaradara.
Bhandardara is a village on the western coast of India in Ahmednagar District of Maharashtra, about 185 kilometers from Mumbai. We took the Mumbai–Nasik highway and went up to Ghoti Village which is 9 kms after Igatpuri. Here we took a right turn on to the Shirdi by- pass road. This road goes to Rajur and then joins Pune-Nasik road at Sangamner. About 35 kms from Ghoti, turn right and travel about 5 kms to reach Bhandaradara on a narrow road. It takes about 4 hrs to cover this whole distance. We reached around 12.30pm.
Ravi and family left Pune on the 1st afternoon and joined us at Bhandaradara around 6pm.
Bhandaradara is nestled in the Sahyadri Range and offers pristine beauty and serenity. This is still not a much explored area and hence peaceful with no commercialization. There are only two resorts in the area offering good accommodation and food. During the day it was very pleasant and evenings were slightly cool. The resort had arranged wonderful tribal dance shows in the evenings.
I checked up with the resort reception and came to know that Kalsubai peak can be approached from a village 8 kms away from the resort and the trek will take about 6 hours. I had not actually planned to take this trek when we left Mumbai. But once in Bhandaradara, I decided to take up the challenge.
Next morning at 8.30 am, I put on a light jacket, cap, took an apple, an orange and a bottle of water in a small back pack and told my wife I am going to Kalsubai peak. I took the car and drove to Village Bari. From here the peak is about 5 kms. I parked the car and talked to the villagers for a guide. A tribal young man offered to guide me to the peak. We started at 9 am. Initially it was more or less level ground. We walked through couple of villages on bunds separating paddy fields for about 2 kms and reached a temple of Hanuman and another deity. From there it was a gentle slope for another kilometer or so. There was some vegetation, mostly bush, all round. Very few trees were present. The track was dusty with some pebbles and boulders. I had some problem walking as I was not wearing proper trekking shoes.
There is a well at half the climb, which had cool, clean water. I am told that the water level in the well does not drop even in summer.
Suddenly the track became quite steep, some times even up to 45 deg. In some places to cross ravines or where the slope is very steep, iron ladders with railings have been provided. These have pipe rungs at about 30 cms spacing. If you miss a step you will be in the ravine. Some such ladders have more than 75 steps and you cannot stop in the middle as it will obstruct those going up or down. You have to keep pegging along. It was very tiring. The guide kept goading me on and with frequent rests I made it to a plateau right at the top. Suddenly you find a huge rock formation about 50M high in front of you, which is the peak. Kalsubai temple is on the peak. I had to again take the iron ladder which is almost vertical, to climb up to the peak. And then there I was at the peak Kalsubai. It was 12 noon. My guide told me that I had made the climb faster than an average person. The peak is a flat ground of about 30M X 15M with the temple at the center.
At 1,646 mts, Mount Kalsubai is the highest peak in Sahyadri range of hills and is a favourite of trekkers. The trek is however strenuous and requires quite an amount of stamina.
I met a group of young men at the peak, who had come on motor cycles from Mumbai. They brought camping tents with them and had decided to stay at the plateau for the night to watch the sunset and the sunrise. The air was cool. There was thick fog all round and visibility was poor. Through the haze we could see the Sahyadri Range, some other peaks,(Along, Malang, Kulang and Mahuli), the Bhandaradara dam and the lake. The guide pointed out a spot where JATAYU’s wing is supposed to have fallen when he fought with Ravana who was taking away Sita. A small temple for Rama is built at the spot.
I ate the fruits, drank some water and started the descent at 12.30 pm. The descent was also not easy especially on the iron ladders, as you have to climb down backwards. The dust and small gravel on the ground made it slippery. We had made it almost 85% when we had to go down a steep slope. I did not get a proper foot hold, slipped and fell on my back. Luckily no serious injury except some bruises on elbows and palms. After a little rest we reached the village by 2pm.
Unfortunately. I found that one of the tyres of my car had gone flat. The village is so small, that no one knew to change the tyres. I was too tired to do anything. I just sat on a rock wondering what to do. Then a young boy of around 15 years approached me and said that if I could guide him he will try to remove the flat tyre and fix the new one. It took him half an hour to do the job while I went on telling him how to do it. I was happy the job was done and he was happy that he learnt some thing new. I gave him some money and left the place and reached the resort by 3pm.
No communication with outside world was possible on the trek as hills all round block signals. Surprisingly when my son called me I was right on the peak and I could talk to him. After that there was no communication for nearly three hours and my family were bit worried, specially my grand daughter Rhea. As soon as I reached the resort, she ran to me and shouted at me “why did you go on such a trip alone?” I stood still for a moment and to lighten the situation, just turned around and showed my back which was covered with red earth from the fall. She had a hearty laugh. She asked me about injuries and when told that there was nothing serious she was relieved.
I had some thing to eat and took rest for some time. In the evening my son took us around in the car to see the dam and the lake. On the way we saw some fields where traditional ploughing was in progress. I got down and took Rhea around and showed her the plough, the bulls, furrows, sowing of seeds, watering the fields and explained how it is all done. She was also thrilled to see a huge well, fields of cabbage (each one weighing some 3kgs), tomatoes and brinjal. Where does a child get to see such things in a city like Mumbai?
Back at the resort, we had a glorious time together. We played table tennis, badminton, cards. Rhea took a cycle and had some fun.
We left Bhandaradara next morning for Mumbai. Back to routine.
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