THE LIVING GODDESS OF NEPAL
Kumari Devi & the Indra Jatra Festival
The Himalayan Hindu Kingdom of Nepal is not only the land of many mountain peaks, but also of many gods and goddesses, unique among all of them being the living, breathing goddess – Kumari Devi, a deified young girl.
The custom of worshipping a pre-pubescent girl, who is not a born goddess, as the source of supreme power is an old Hindu-Buddhist tradition that still continues to this day in Nepal.
The story goes like this. Jaya Prakash Malla was the King of Malla Dynasty. According to myth, he was playing every night Tripasa (a kind of dice game) with the Goddess Taleju. The Goddess used to come every night to play with him with a condition that he would never reveal this secret to anyone. One day the Queen came searching for the King and saw him playing with the Goddess. When the Goddess saw the Queen, she was very angry. She told the King that if he wanted her to come back and protect his country then he would need to go in a search of a virgin in the Newari community in whom she would reincarnate herself and save the country. It is believed that the King went in search of a virgin girl in the Newari Community and the tradition of Kumari thus started.
Choosing the Living Goddess
Selection of the Kumari, who is entitled to sit on the pedestal for worship as the Living Goddess is an elaborate affair. According to the traditions of Vajrayana sect of Mahayana Buddhism, girls in the age-group of 4-7 year, who belong to the Sakya community, and have an ‘appropriate’ horoscope are screened on the basis of their 32 attributes of perfection, including color of eyes, shape of teeth and even voice quality. They are then are taken to meet the deities in a dark room, where terrifying tantrik rituals are performed. The sight of the Buffalo heads scattered around, the demon- like masked dancers, the terrifying noises they encounter scare some of these innocent babies. The real goddess is one who stays calm and collected throughout these trials. Other Hindu-Buddhist rituals that follow finally determine the real Kumari. The Kumari cult is distinctly evident among the Newar community in the Kathmandu Valley as she has become an inevitable feature of their worship almost in every Vihar and Bahal, including the nooks and corners of Newari settlements
Girl Becomes Goddess
After the ceremonies, the spirit of the goddess is said to enter her body. She takes on the clothing and jewelry of her predecessor, and is given the title of Kumari Devi, who is worshipped on all religious occasions. She would now live in a place called ‘Kumari Ghar’, at Kathmandu’s Hanumandhoka Palace square. The god-house, Kumari Ghar is a store-house of magnificent intricate carvings where the Living Goddess performs her daily rituals. During her tenure in the god-house, Guthi Sansthan, the government trust fund bears her entire expenses including that of her caretakers.
The Kumari Festival (Indra Jatra)
Indra Jatra is performed on the last day of rainy season(September end), to seek blessings from Indra the god of rains, so that the rains arrive next year as usual.
On Indra Jatra day the Living Goddess in all her jeweled splendor travels through the older part of Kathmandu city in a three tiered chariot accompanied by Ganesh and Bhairab for three days. It is really a grand gala in which thousands throng in and around the Kathmandu Durbar Square to pay their homage to the Living Goddess. During this festival she also blesses the King in keeping with the tradition in which the first king of the Shah dynasty, who annexed Kathmandu in 1768, received a blessing from the Living Goddess.
This is the only day on which she appears in public.
Normally, the Kumari appears for tourists through an intricately carved window at her residence in the historic square on a few occasions. But not for the past six months. Her guardians have withdrawn her from sight because of the row with the Kathmandu municipality. The whole area has been declared as “Endangered” by UNESCO and an entry fee is charged form Foreigners. There is a dispute about sharing this revenue which has lead to this impasse.
Goddess Turns Human
The Kumari’s godhood comes to an end with her first menstruation, because it is believed that on reaching puberty the Kumari turns human. However, if she turns out to be unlucky, even a minor cut or bleeding can render her invalid for worship, and the search for the new goddess has to begin.
As the reigning Kumari approaches the age of 12, the board of selectors reactivates their child-hunting network. At the first sign of menstrual blood, it's the end of the road for the present Kumari -- her days of power are gone, the spirit of Taleju has fled her body, and all that's left to do is take her back where she had come from.
This fall from grace has never been smooth, and modern thinkers suggest a sort of half-way house where ex-Kumaris can adjust to the drastic change in their circumstances. Most come away wondering why they are being penalized, and find it tough to settle down in a house where they no longer belong, with a family they hardly know. They suffer emotional scars.
Parents too have little use for a daughter who may as well have dropped into the household from another planet -- with no social skills, no experience of domesticity, no education, no prospects of catching a husband. There is a superstition that men who marry Kumaris will die soon, so Kumaris generally remain un-married.
The walls of the Kumari palace are replaced by a vast emotional wasteland and there are no doors this time, which will release them after they have served their time.
Many children will suffer similar fate, so long as financial constraints remain a factor in the poverty-stricken Shakya community. Parents willingly hand over their daughters as there is a mouth less to feed. The superstition that without them, the country is lost still retains its death grip on girls of Nepal's Hindu-Buddhist society.
“After all these years, I still cannot cross the road by myself”, says one ex Kumari whom we met during the Jatra while we were waiting for the Kumari Devi to come out of her dwelling. “I cannot relate to crowds, I shut myself out at family gatherings as I find I have nothing to say. The only time I feel some measure of security is when I'm alone. I've grown accustomed to silence.”
Monday, October 24, 2011
Thursday, October 20, 2011
UJJAIN/UJJAYINI, MADHYA PRADESH
UJJAIN/UJJAYINI (MADYHA PRADESH)
Ujjain is situated about 60 Kms from Indore on the banks of River Shipra at an altitude of 1678 ft. According to Mahabharata and Skanda Purana, Ujjain city came into existence some 3000 yrs. ago.
As a great religious center, Ujjain ranks equal to Benaras, Gaya and Kanchi. Saivism, Vaishnavism and their various cults and sects, Jainism and Buddhism, have found a niche in this catholic city.
This is the city where according to tradition the exceptionally wise sovereign Vikramaditya, the patron of Kalidasa reigned, and this was where Prince Ashoka was posted to serve out his vice-regality during the Mauryan period. And this is the place where Emperor Ashoka’s son Mahendra and daughter Sanghamitra, were born, educated and later dispatched on their Buddhist mission to Sri Lanka.
It is believed that the prime meridian passes through Ujjain based on which Hindu Panchang timings are calculated. It is also believed that the line marking the northern limit of the sun’s apparent wintry passage across the heavens.(23 deg.11min.) passes through Ujjain. The astrologer King Jai Singh who had constructed famous observatories – constructed the Jantar Mantar here. In course of time it was recognized as a principal center of researches in astronomy and astrology. The observatory continues to be used for astronomical researches to date.
Ujjain was on the trade route joining North and South, East and West and hence was a commercial hub and was highly developed. Coins of different countries have been found in and around Ujjain which proves that the traders and pilgrims from all over the world used to visit this ancient holy city.
Ujjain is also known for its famous temples.
Mahakal Temple:
Mahakala of Ujjayini is one of the twelve celebrated Jyotirlingas in India. This Jyotirlinga is located by the Mahakal forest on the right banks of the river Shipra. The temple courtyard is dominated by the shikhara soaring into the sky. The glory of Mahakaleshwar temple has been vividly described in various Puranas. Starting with Kalidasa, many Sanskrit poets have eulogised this temple.
This temple has been renovated by successive dynasties Shunga, Kushana, Satavahana, Gupta, Parihar, Parmara and in comparatively modern period of Marathas. Altutmish pulled this temple down in 1235 A.D. Reconstruction of this temple structure was done at the instance of Ramchandra Baba Shenvi, a Subedar of Malwa under Ranoji Scindia.
Mahakaleshwar is also known as Dakshina Murti (facing South), the only one such among the twelve Jyotirlingas of India. An idol of Omkarshewar-Shiva is consecrated in the upper sanctum of this temple. Nagchandreshwar image is on the third story and is opened for darshan only on Nagpanchmi days. Mahakala is said to have been worshipped by Vikramaditya and Bhoja.
Harasiddhi Temple:
Harasiddhi temple is one of the prominent temples of Ujjayini. Seated between the idols of Mahakaleshwar and Mahasarasvati the idol of Annapurna is painted in dark vermillion.
According to Shiva-Purana, when Shiva carried away the burning body of Sati from the sacrificial fire of Daksha Prajapati, her elbow fell in this spot. Tantric tradition holds this seat as a Siddha-Pitha(Shakti pith). According to Skanda-Purana the name Harasiddhi came from the achievement of the goddess in vanquishing the demons. The folk tradition holds Harasiddhi as the family deity of the King Vikramaditya.
In the centre of this ancient Hindu temple is a rock smeared with turmeric paste and vermillion said to be the impression of the head of Vikramaditya (reigned a.d.380-415), offered to Goddess Durga on the occasion of Dusserah.
The temple has two unique pine-shaped iron lamp stands that tower to a height of 15 feet and display their brilliance after being lit. Hundreds of lamps burning simultaneously make a wondrous sight, especially on Navaratri, the nine-day festival celebrated in the month of October and dedicated to Goddess Durga.
Yet another feature of the temple is the Sri Yantra of nine triangles that represent nine forms of Durga. Sri Yantra is symbolic of the cosmos and is used for meditation.
The observatory:
This observatory was constructed by Savai Raja Jaisingh between 1725 and 1730 A.D. Similar observatories were constructed by him at four other places Delhi,Jaipur,Mathura and Varanasi.Samrat yantra, Nadivalaya yantra, Digamsha yantra and yam-yottara- Bhitti yantra are the main instruments constructed in this observatory. Motions and orbits of the planets are studied through these instruments.
This observatory was renovated by Madhav Rao Scindia then Maharaja of Gwalior state in 1923 A.D. Astronomical studies of planetary motions are still conducted in this observatory under the department of education and an ephemeris (Panchang) is published every year. In other words this is the only observatory among the observatories of Jaisingh where these instruments are even today utilised for astronomical studies.
Sandeepani Ashram:
The fact that ancient Ujjain apart from its political and religious importance, enjoyed the reputation of being a great seat of learning as early as the Mahabharata period is borne out by the fact that, Lord Krishna and Sudama received studied in the ashram of Guru Sandipani here. The area near the ashram is known as Ankapata, popularly believed to have been the place used by Lord Krishna for washing his writing tablet. The numerals 1 to 100 found on a stone are believed to have been engraved by Guru Sandipani.
Besides Mahabharata, Shrimad Bhagvata, Brahma, Agni and Brahmavaivatra bear references to Sandipani Ashram. Three thousand years old painted grey wares have been covered from this area. These bear a resemblance to the similar remains recovered ar Hastinapur, Indraprastha, Mathura, Ahichchhatra and Kaushambi.
The Gomti Kunda, next to the Ashram, mentioned in the Puranas was the source of water to the ashram in the olden days. A standing Nandi, belonging to the Shunga period is found near the tank.
The followers of Vallabha sect regard this place as the 73rd seat of the 84 seats of Vallabhacharya where he delivered his discourses throughout India.
Gadkalika:
Situated about 2 miles from the city of Ujjain, the Kalika deity in this temple is believed to have been worshipped by Kalidasa. The legend goes that he was an idiot and it is by his devotion to the goddess Kalika that he acquired great literary skills.
Images, bricks and a part of the plinth of first century B.C.the Shunga period, fourth country A.D. the Gupta period and tenth century A.D. the Parmar period, have been recovered from the basement of the temple.Emperor Harsha Vardhan got this temple renovated in the seventh century A.D. There is evidence of its further renovation in the tenth century under the Parmar Rule. The temple has been rebuilt in the modern times by the erstwhile Gwalior state
BhartrihariCaves:
These caves near the Gadkalika temple are where the great scholar poet Bhartrihari, who is said to have been the step-brother of Vikramaditya, lived and meditated after renouncing the worldly life. His famous works, Shrigarshatak, Vairagyashatak and Nitishatak are known for the exquisite use of the Sanskrit meter.Bhartrihari was a king who renounced this world when he discovered that his favorite queen pined for someone else.
According to the old belief this cave was used for the yogic practices of the King Bhartrihari. The present cave is the remains of a double storied monastery of the Parmar-period (10th century A. D.) In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries this place was associated with two important preceptors of the Nath cult Gorakhnath and Matsyendranath. The testimony of Shaivite and Bhairavi forms of worship is evident from the sculpture of this place.
The idol of Shiva wielding Khatvanga in a dancing pose shows its relationship with the Kapalikacult.
Ujjain is situated about 60 Kms from Indore on the banks of River Shipra at an altitude of 1678 ft. According to Mahabharata and Skanda Purana, Ujjain city came into existence some 3000 yrs. ago.
As a great religious center, Ujjain ranks equal to Benaras, Gaya and Kanchi. Saivism, Vaishnavism and their various cults and sects, Jainism and Buddhism, have found a niche in this catholic city.
This is the city where according to tradition the exceptionally wise sovereign Vikramaditya, the patron of Kalidasa reigned, and this was where Prince Ashoka was posted to serve out his vice-regality during the Mauryan period. And this is the place where Emperor Ashoka’s son Mahendra and daughter Sanghamitra, were born, educated and later dispatched on their Buddhist mission to Sri Lanka.
It is believed that the prime meridian passes through Ujjain based on which Hindu Panchang timings are calculated. It is also believed that the line marking the northern limit of the sun’s apparent wintry passage across the heavens.(23 deg.11min.) passes through Ujjain. The astrologer King Jai Singh who had constructed famous observatories – constructed the Jantar Mantar here. In course of time it was recognized as a principal center of researches in astronomy and astrology. The observatory continues to be used for astronomical researches to date.
Ujjain was on the trade route joining North and South, East and West and hence was a commercial hub and was highly developed. Coins of different countries have been found in and around Ujjain which proves that the traders and pilgrims from all over the world used to visit this ancient holy city.
Ujjain is also known for its famous temples.
Mahakal Temple:
Mahakala of Ujjayini is one of the twelve celebrated Jyotirlingas in India. This Jyotirlinga is located by the Mahakal forest on the right banks of the river Shipra. The temple courtyard is dominated by the shikhara soaring into the sky. The glory of Mahakaleshwar temple has been vividly described in various Puranas. Starting with Kalidasa, many Sanskrit poets have eulogised this temple.
This temple has been renovated by successive dynasties Shunga, Kushana, Satavahana, Gupta, Parihar, Parmara and in comparatively modern period of Marathas. Altutmish pulled this temple down in 1235 A.D. Reconstruction of this temple structure was done at the instance of Ramchandra Baba Shenvi, a Subedar of Malwa under Ranoji Scindia.
Mahakaleshwar is also known as Dakshina Murti (facing South), the only one such among the twelve Jyotirlingas of India. An idol of Omkarshewar-Shiva is consecrated in the upper sanctum of this temple. Nagchandreshwar image is on the third story and is opened for darshan only on Nagpanchmi days. Mahakala is said to have been worshipped by Vikramaditya and Bhoja.
Harasiddhi Temple:
Harasiddhi temple is one of the prominent temples of Ujjayini. Seated between the idols of Mahakaleshwar and Mahasarasvati the idol of Annapurna is painted in dark vermillion.
According to Shiva-Purana, when Shiva carried away the burning body of Sati from the sacrificial fire of Daksha Prajapati, her elbow fell in this spot. Tantric tradition holds this seat as a Siddha-Pitha(Shakti pith). According to Skanda-Purana the name Harasiddhi came from the achievement of the goddess in vanquishing the demons. The folk tradition holds Harasiddhi as the family deity of the King Vikramaditya.
In the centre of this ancient Hindu temple is a rock smeared with turmeric paste and vermillion said to be the impression of the head of Vikramaditya (reigned a.d.380-415), offered to Goddess Durga on the occasion of Dusserah.
The temple has two unique pine-shaped iron lamp stands that tower to a height of 15 feet and display their brilliance after being lit. Hundreds of lamps burning simultaneously make a wondrous sight, especially on Navaratri, the nine-day festival celebrated in the month of October and dedicated to Goddess Durga.
Yet another feature of the temple is the Sri Yantra of nine triangles that represent nine forms of Durga. Sri Yantra is symbolic of the cosmos and is used for meditation.
The observatory:
This observatory was constructed by Savai Raja Jaisingh between 1725 and 1730 A.D. Similar observatories were constructed by him at four other places Delhi,Jaipur,Mathura and Varanasi.Samrat yantra, Nadivalaya yantra, Digamsha yantra and yam-yottara- Bhitti yantra are the main instruments constructed in this observatory. Motions and orbits of the planets are studied through these instruments.
This observatory was renovated by Madhav Rao Scindia then Maharaja of Gwalior state in 1923 A.D. Astronomical studies of planetary motions are still conducted in this observatory under the department of education and an ephemeris (Panchang) is published every year. In other words this is the only observatory among the observatories of Jaisingh where these instruments are even today utilised for astronomical studies.
Sandeepani Ashram:
The fact that ancient Ujjain apart from its political and religious importance, enjoyed the reputation of being a great seat of learning as early as the Mahabharata period is borne out by the fact that, Lord Krishna and Sudama received studied in the ashram of Guru Sandipani here. The area near the ashram is known as Ankapata, popularly believed to have been the place used by Lord Krishna for washing his writing tablet. The numerals 1 to 100 found on a stone are believed to have been engraved by Guru Sandipani.
Besides Mahabharata, Shrimad Bhagvata, Brahma, Agni and Brahmavaivatra bear references to Sandipani Ashram. Three thousand years old painted grey wares have been covered from this area. These bear a resemblance to the similar remains recovered ar Hastinapur, Indraprastha, Mathura, Ahichchhatra and Kaushambi.
The Gomti Kunda, next to the Ashram, mentioned in the Puranas was the source of water to the ashram in the olden days. A standing Nandi, belonging to the Shunga period is found near the tank.
The followers of Vallabha sect regard this place as the 73rd seat of the 84 seats of Vallabhacharya where he delivered his discourses throughout India.
Gadkalika:
Situated about 2 miles from the city of Ujjain, the Kalika deity in this temple is believed to have been worshipped by Kalidasa. The legend goes that he was an idiot and it is by his devotion to the goddess Kalika that he acquired great literary skills.
Images, bricks and a part of the plinth of first century B.C.the Shunga period, fourth country A.D. the Gupta period and tenth century A.D. the Parmar period, have been recovered from the basement of the temple.Emperor Harsha Vardhan got this temple renovated in the seventh century A.D. There is evidence of its further renovation in the tenth century under the Parmar Rule. The temple has been rebuilt in the modern times by the erstwhile Gwalior state
BhartrihariCaves:
These caves near the Gadkalika temple are where the great scholar poet Bhartrihari, who is said to have been the step-brother of Vikramaditya, lived and meditated after renouncing the worldly life. His famous works, Shrigarshatak, Vairagyashatak and Nitishatak are known for the exquisite use of the Sanskrit meter.Bhartrihari was a king who renounced this world when he discovered that his favorite queen pined for someone else.
According to the old belief this cave was used for the yogic practices of the King Bhartrihari. The present cave is the remains of a double storied monastery of the Parmar-period (10th century A. D.) In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries this place was associated with two important preceptors of the Nath cult Gorakhnath and Matsyendranath. The testimony of Shaivite and Bhairavi forms of worship is evident from the sculpture of this place.
The idol of Shiva wielding Khatvanga in a dancing pose shows its relationship with the Kapalikacult.
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